7,000 TIMES MORE
The capital of the Philippines - its heart and soul -- is
Manila. It sets the rhythm of life in this archipelago and is a
pulsating hub that blends the Oriental with the Occidental, the
quaint with the modern, the mundane with the extraordinary.
Manila was born out of the ashes of a once flourishing Malay
settlement by the banks of the Pasig River. In 1571, Miguel
Lopez de Legazpi established the Ever Loyal City of Manila
which, until 1898, was the seat of Spanish colonial rule in
Asia. He built the city within walls and called it Intramuros.
An anchor tourist destination, Manila is the very core of the
7,000 times more islands that make up the Philippines. It is a
center for the performing arts in Asia.
THE GRANDEUR OF INTRAMUROS
At the turn of the 20th century, the great American architect
and city planner Daniel Burnham noted that "the old walled city
of Intramuros at the mouth of the Pasig River is one of the best
preserved medieval cities anywhere in the world." But the
Pacific War of the 1940’s took its toll. Faithful reconstruction
goes on today in Intramuros. A few of the gates and ramparts
have been turned into parks and performing venues, including
Puerta Real and Baluarte de San Diego. Chambers found along its
gates are now occupied by art galleries, souvenir shops,
restaurants, even a cyber caf้. Fort Santiago, the site of
torture chambers and dungeons where political prisoners from
Spanish to Japanese times were kept and executed, is now a lush
park with flowering trees and homing pigeons. Here, one may
enjoy a leisurely ride aboard a horse-drawn carriage.
At the center of Intramuros is the grand Manila Cathedral with
its detailed stone carvings, stained glass mosaics and rose
windows. San Agustin Church, completed in 1606, has withstood
all the fires and earthquakes that have hit Manila through the
centuries. One of the four Philippine Baroque Churches inscribed
in the World Heritage List, its monastery has been turned into a
museum housing priceless religious artifacts. Adjoining it are
the restored gardens of Fr. Jose Blanco who studied Philippine
botanical life during the Spanish period. Barrio San Luis along
Juan Luna Street is made up of five faithfully reconstructed
colonial houses - Casa Manila, Casa Urdaneta, Casa Blanca, Los
Hidalgos and El Hogar Filipino.
Manila has since expanded beyond Intramuros to become the
nucleus of the country’s largest metropolis, Greater Manila,
made up of 11 other cities and five towns. But before it spread
out of its confines, history saw Manila figuring prominently in
the Galleon Trade, the first trans-Pacific commerce between
Asia, America and Europe for some 250 years.
The city was also scarred by many foreign invasions, ravaged by
Chinese, Dutch, Portuguese and British marauders. Shortly after
the country declared itself Asia’s first democracy in 1898, the
Americans invaded its shores and ruled for 50 years. And after
the Pacific War of the 1940’s, when the Japanese Imperial Army
reigned for four years, Manila was the second most destroyed
city in the world. The rubbles of the past have seasoned and
strengthened Manila’s character today.
Just off Intramuros’ walls is the world-class Club Intramuros
which offers day and night golfing. Adjacent to it is the
58-hectare Rizal Park, which runs from Taft Avenue up to the
seawalls of the fabled Manila Bay. In 1902, Burnham designed a
U-shaped government complex within Luneta. Only three buildings
were however constructed: the Executive House occupied by the
National Museum, the Department of Finance Building which now
houses the Museum of the Filipino People, and the Department of
Tourism Building envisioned to become the future Museum for
Across the Pasig River from Fort Santiago is Binondo, or
Chinatown. Not much has changed in terms of lifestyle in this
quaint district although, now, high-rise buildings have started
to appear in its skyline. A stone’s throw away from Rizal Park
is the Ermita district which, together with the Malate district,
forms what is known as Manila’s Tourist Belt. Ermita is antique
and art galleries, curio and souvenir shops while Malate is cozy
cafes, music lounges and performance theaters.
At the heart of Manila is Quiapo. What has caught the fancy of
many bargain-hunters is Ilalim ng Tulay - literally, "Under the
Bridge" - where stalls sell an array of handicrafts at prices
that are practically a steal. Near Quiapo is the genteel San
Miguel district, with its ancestral homes and Malacanang Palace,
seat of the Philippine government. A museum of presidential
memorabilia is open to the public.
OF THE COUNTRY'S BEST
Manila mirrors the best of this country’s 7,000 times more
islands. A few minutes away from the Ninoy Aquino International
Airport and the Fiesta Duty Free Shop in Paranaque City is
Nayong Pilipino, or Philippine Village, which features the
country’s famous landmarks in miniature. Weekends are good days
to visit, when the park assumes a barrio fiesta (village
festival) atmosphere, complete with traditional games,
indigenous music, songs and dances, and craft demonstrations.
THE SUNSET STRIP
Roxas Boulevard, which extends from Paranaque City to Manila, is
the Bay Area from where one can have a view of the famed Manila
sunset. Many landmarks are found in this area, including the
Department of Foreign Affairs and the Philippine Senate
buildings. Within the stretch is the International Trade Center
complex, the Philippine Trade Training Center and the World
Trade Center. Further back is the Government Service Insurance
System building which houses an art gallery by the bay.
The boulevard is also home to the country’s premier performing
venue, the Cultural Center of the Philippines. Within its
complex are the Philippine International Convention Center, the
Product Design and Development Center, the Folk Arts Theater,
the Coconut Palace and the Westin Philippine Plaza Hotel.
Adjoining the complex is the Manila Yacht Club and the
Philippine Navy Headquarters. A little farther is the US
Across the Yacht Club is the Bangko Sentral (Central Bank)
complex which houses the Money Museum. The bank has Asia’s
biggest and finest gold collection at the Metropolitan Museum, a
home for the modern masters. Roxas Boulevard is lined with posh
hotels, casinos and lively nightspots.
Greater Manila is where the country’s most prestigious business
addresses and the trendiest leisure establishments are found. By
day, it hums with the bustle of commerce and, by night, throbs
with the excitement of varied, high class entertainment. Makati
City is the country’s financial center and the most prestigious
business address. Many foreign embassies and multinationals call
it home. Fashionable hotels, restaurants, discos, music bars,
boutiques and specialty shops converge around the sleek Ayala
In Makati is Forbes Park, home to the rich and famous. The most
elite country club, Manila Polo Club, and golf course, Manila
Golf Club, are nestled within the village. Giving Makati a run
for its money is Mandaluyong City, with Ortigas Center an
impressive alternative to Ayala Center. Home to the Asian
Development Bank and the Philippine Stock Exchange, it is also
the site of three of Metro Manila’s gigantic shopping malls - SM
Megamall, Robinson’s Galleria and Shangri-la EDSA Plaza.
San Juan is built on a hilly terrain, a drive along the old
residential section can be a pleasurable diversion. Its
Greenhills Commercial Center houses some of Metro Manila’s
vibrant music halls. Quezon City was envisioned by the late
President Manuel L. Quezon (after whom the city was named) to be
the country’s government center. Many of the national government
offices are located here as well as the country’s leading
educational institution, the University of the Philippines.
Dominating Cubao, Quezon City’s commercial center, is Araneta
Coliseum, the country’s biggest enclosed entertainment arena.
For nightlife, the Quezon Boulevard, Timog Avenue, Tomas Morato
Avenue and West Avenue strips offer varied, colorful fares.
Marikina City is the Shoe Center of the Philippines. The city
takes pride in its 75.6-hectare River Park.
Paranaque City is generally associated with its dry goods and
seafood market and restaurants, and Redemptorist Church, a
pilgrimage site which houses the Shrine of Our Lady of Perpetual
Help. Las Pinas City has retained much of its provincial appeal.
Visitors flock to this city to see the world’s only bamboo
organ, housed at the picturesque St. Joseph’s Parish Church.
Metro Manila is one big gastronomic trip of many cuisines. In
Intramuros is Illustrado Restaurant with its colonial ambiance
and Spanish provincial cuisine. The old Malate district, with
Remedios Circle at its core, is the favorite watering hole of
artists, designers and the caf้ society who are only too willing
to try the varied international flavors offered by the many
restaurants in the area. Authentic Chinese cuisine can be had at
the old financial district of Binondo. Aside from Ayala Center,
many fine and theme dining establishments line Jupiter Street
and Pasay Road in Makati City. From theme restaurants to
beer-and-grill gardens, Tomas Morato Avenue, Timog Street,
Quezon Avenue and West Avenue in Quezon City have them all.
Interesting clusters of restaurants and bars are found in San
Juan’s Greenhills and Mandaluyong City’s Ortigas Center.