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Siem Reap and Angkor
The world-renowned temples of Angkor are situated in the nor-western
province of Siem Reap. Within an area of approximately 600 square
kilometers, over 100 temples have been discovered. All were built
between the 9th and the 13th centuries, and those remaining temples
constitute the skeleton of what was once the religious and
administrative centre of the Khmer Empire.
The constant building program undertaken by successive Khmer kings can
be compared-favourably --with the pyramid construction projects of the
Pharaohs in Egypt. Similarly to the Pharaohs, the Khmer kings made use
of a vast force of slave labour. Each new "project" was made possible
by the 750,000 people estimated to have lived at Angkor during the
12th and 13th centuries. Despite the scores of temples that remain
today, there is little evidence of these nameless souls who lived in
what must have been one of the biggest cities on earth at the time.
This is because the people-everyone from the lowliest peasant to the
King's most senior courtiers-lived in wooden structures, all of which
have long-since rotted away in the tropical heat. Only gods could live
in stone, or in this case, the god-kings of the Khmer nation.
Portuguese travellers are believed to have been the first westerners
to gaze in wonder at the temples of Angkor while journeying during the
16th Century. However, most credit for the "discovery" of Angkor has
fallen to French botanist Henri Mouhot, whose visit to Angkor in 1860
was posthumously documented in Paris in 1868. During the remainder of
the 19th Century and into the 20th Century, several French expeditions
visited the temples and work was carried out to clear the jungle,
which had enveloped most of the monuments. In 1907, Thailand returned
control of Angkor to Cambodia and in the same year the first tourists
arrived.
In the early days of tourism, visitors to Angkor followed one of two
circuits to see the temples, the Little (Petit) Circuit or the Big
(Grand) Circuit. These were often undertaken on the back of an
elephant. Today things are different, and air-conditioned vehicles
make the experience significantly more comfortable.
If time is limited, visitors may choose to follow "the Petit Circuit",
which includes visits to the Royal City of Angkor Thom with its
numerous temples, Angkor Wat, the royal bathing pool of Sras Srang,
and several other monuments. Extended tours continue to the "Grand
Circuit", visiting a number of other temples and an Angkorean
reservoir. If time allows, tourists may also arrange to visit other
prestigious temples such as Banteay Srey or Banteay Samre, situated
slightly further from the main temple complex. |
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Angkor Wat |
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There are few places anywhere on earth
to match the splendour of Angkor Wat. The temple is one of the largest
monuments to religion ever built and is truly one the wonders of the
world. Believed to have been constructed as a temple and mausoleum for
King Suryavarman II at the peak of the Khmer empire in the first half
of the 12th century, Angkor Wat is probably the best-preserved of the
Angkorean temples. As with other Angkorean temples and walled cities
such as Angkor Thom, the central theme of Khmer architecture revolved
around the idea of the temple-mountain. By the time building on Angkor
Wat was begun early in the 12th century, this had been elaborated to a
central tower surrounded by four smaller towers. The central monument
represents the mythical Mount Meru, the holy mountain at the centre of
the universe, which was home to the Hindu god Vishnu. The five towers
symbolise Mount Meru's five peaks.
It is difficult to express in words the enormous scale of Angkor Wat,
but it can be explained in part by a look at the dimensions of the
complex. The temple is surrounded by a moat which makes the one around
the Tower of London, built at roughly the same time, look like nothing
more than a garden trench. At 190 metres wide and forming a rectangle
measuring 1.5 km by 1.3 km, it is hard to imagine any attacking force
overwhelming the defences. But the moat was more than just a defensive
bulwark, in line with the temple's Hindu origins it represented the
oceans of the world.
A rectangular wall measuring 1025 metres by 800 metres borders the
inner edge of the moat. There is a gate in each side of the wall, but
unusually for the mainly Hindu-influenced Angkorian temples, the main
entrance faces west. This entrance is a richly decorated portico, 235
m wide with three gates. However, the temple's greatest sculptural
treasure is its 2 km-long bas-reliefs around and walls of the outer
gallery and the hundred figures of devatas and apsaras. This
intricately carved gallery tells stories of the god VI shnu and of
Suryavarman II's successes on the battlefield. The whole complex
covers 81 hectares. |
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Angkor Thom |
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This
Royal city was first built under the reign of Udayadityavarman II in
the 11th Century. It was destroyed when the Chams from Vietnam rose up
against the Khmers and invaded, sacking the city, and was subsequently
renovated by King Jayavarman VII at the end of the 12th Century.
Inside its walls there are many monuments :
The Bayon
This temple mountain built by Jayavarman VII is situated in the centre
of the city of Angkor Thom. It is a three-tiered pyramid with its
entrance facing East. The central shrine is surrounded by 54 towers
all crowned by gigantic faces, representing Lokiteshvara but with the
features of Jayavarman VII. They gaze out to the North, South, East
and West, and wherever you are in the temple, you are surrounded by
these enigmatic faces, smiling at you all the time. Unlike his
predecessors who had worshipped the Hindu deities of Shiva and Vishnu,
Jayavarman VII adopted Mahayana Buddhism as the fount of royal
divinity. This sets The Bayon apart from many other Angkorean
monuments.
The Baphuon
This temple built by Udayadityarvarman II was the most poorly
constructed of all the temples in Angkor. From the remaining ruins, it
is possible to see how imposing it was. This temple hill was dedicated
to Shiva, but in its reliefs many motives from the Vishnu epic can be
seen. Restoration work continues to be carried out on the Baphuon.
Terrace of The Elephants and Terrace of The Leper King
At the North of the Baphuon lies the Royal city, of which very little
remains except these two Terraces. The first owes its name to the
outstanding depiction of elephants, while the second gets its name
from the magnificent sculpture of King Yasovarman, popularly known as
the Leper King. The original of this statue is now in the National
Museum in Phnom Penh. |
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Ta Prom |
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This temple was a monastery built by
Jayavarman VII as a residence for his mother. Ta Prohm has been
controversially left to the destructive power of the jungle by French
archeologists to show how nature can destroy man's work. It has been
largely overgrown by the jungle and as you climb through the
dilapidated stone structures you see many giant trees growing out of
the top of the temple itself. It's the sort of place where you'd
expect to see Indiana Jones step out from behind a fallen pillar. As
such, it is one of the most regularly visited temples, with visitors
often arriving during the warmer hours of the middle of the day to
take advantage of the protective canopy the forest spreads above the
temple. Ta Prohm looks as many of the monuments did when European
explorers first laid eyes on them. |
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Ta Keo |
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King Suryavarman I commissioned this
temple in the 10th Century but it was never completed. It is a pyramid
on 5 levels whose total height is 22 metres. It is dedicated to Shiva. |
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Banteay Kdei |
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This temple was constructed by
Jayavarman VII during the 12th and 13th Centuries. It system of
galleries and vestibules that were added after the construction of the
main towers makes it look like a cloister. It was built in sandstone,
which has deteriorated quite badly. However, there remain some very
beautiful lintels and pediments. |
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Sras Srang |
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The royal pool is situated opposite the
East gate of Banteay Kdei. It is known as the King's bath. |
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Pre Rup |
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This temple was built in the 10th
Century by Rajendravarman. Its proportions are perfect, a truly
beautiful piece of work. In its construction we can see the first
appearance of the long halls which are very common in the construction
of temples with continuous galleries. Pre Rup means turning the body
and the Khmer people believe this temple was a funeral monument. |
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East Mebon |
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Also
built in the 10th Century by Rajendravarman, this temple was situated
on a small island in the middle of the Oriental, or Eastern, Baray. It
has all the characteristics of the mountain temple but was accessible
by boat only. From the inscriptions found close to it, we know that
Rajendravarman dedicated it to his parents. |
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Neak Pean |
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Built
by Jayavarman VII, this temple is the perfect representation on earth
of the cosmic world. It has been said that this monument was
consecrated to Buddha who reached perfection in Nirvana, and the
ornamental lakes surrounding it were meant as places where pilgrims
could wash and purify themselves before reaching the supreme
perfection. In the centre of these ornamental lakes there is a small
temple surrounded by two nagas, whose heads allow a passage on the
West side. This temple is one of the beauties of Khmer art. |
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Bantrey Srey |
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Built
by a Brahman in the 10th Century, this temple was dedicated to Shiva.
The famous pink sandstone structure bears a series of beautiful
sculptures, lintels, pediments and friezes. While not a particularly
large temple complex, the beauty of Banteay Srey is found not in the
scale but the detail. Some say the bas relief work is the best example
of Khmer classical art remaining. |
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Phnom Krom |
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Built
by Yacovarman I in the 10th Century, this temple sits atop a hill and
is interesting mostly for the view it offers of the valley and the
Tonle Sap. The temple is in a very poor state, but its ruins are worth
visiting. We recommend a late afternoon visit to enjoy the landscape
and refreshing winds. |
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Barays |
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The
East and West Barays are two enormous lakes, both entirely man made.
They were central to the health and vigour of Khmer civilisation.
Their irrigation purpose is nowadays a matter of debate among Angkor
specialists. The East Baray is now empty, whereas the Western one is
still half full. |
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Roluos |
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About 10 km from Siem
Reap lies the complex of Roluos, one of the first Khmer capitals built
by Jayavarman II, then called Hariharalaya. Today we can visit three
remaining Hindu sanctuaries: Preah Ko, Bakong and Lolei. All three
temples were built of brick and though they are not as spectacular as
the other temples of Angkor, they are well preserved and very
interesting. |
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Kobal Spien |
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More commonly known to foreigners as
the River of a Thousand Lingas, this is an area of riverbed carvings
similar to Phnom Kulen, but more peaceful. Kobal Spien is about a
half-hour walk up a pleasant path shaded by jungle to where the
carvings begin. It is sensible although not entirely necessary to get
someone to guide you who can also tell you about what you are actually
seeing. Either way, do not wander off well-trodden paths as there is a
serious landmine problem here. The river eventually appears on your
left and the first carvings include a large image of Vishnu. As you
continue on, you come to an area with several good images of Rama,
Lachsme and Hanuman, and further up some lingas. On the way back down
there is a path which follows the river and along this stretch are
hundreds of lingas, hence the name the River of a Thousand Lingas.
These eventually lead to a waterfall with a pool below. Kobal Spien is
about 30 km north-east of the Bayon and about 9 km beyond the temple
of Banteay Srei along a good dirt road. |
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Phnom Kulen |
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Phnom Kulen is considered by Khmer people to be the most sacred
mountain in Cambodia and is a popular place of pilgrimage. It played a
significant role in the history of the Khmer empire as it was from
here in 802 that Jayarvarman II proclaimed independence from Java,
giving birth to modern Cambodia. There is a small wat at the summit of
the mountain which houses a large reclining Buddha carved into a
sandstone boulder. As at Kobal Spien, at no point should you wander
off well-used paths as there is a serious landmine problem here.
From the base of the mountain it is a long climb to the top, at least
one-and-a-half hours even at a good pace. At the top a mostly shaded
and flat path takes no more than 30 to 45 minutes before you reach a
small river, into the bed of which are carved numerous lingas. There
is a waterfall nearby in which you can swim, and an overgrown temple
dating from the Angkor period, but think twice before climbing around
it as there may be landmines inside. From the top of Phnom Kulen, 461
metres at its highest point, the spectacular view spans right across
the forested plateau. |
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Information provided by
Ministry of Tourism. Government of
Cambodia. |
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